THE WOMAN: IS SHE A WARRIOR OR A CHILD? HERE IS THE ANSWER FROM MILAN FASHION WEEK ... - FASHION

Warrior women, child women, and the triumph of mothers. 10 notable things from Milan Fashion Week

The Milan fashion week has just ended, between shows that have definitely convinced, such as Gucci or N ° 21, and others that have left some perplexity. Among the ups and downs of fashion, however, we want to take note of ten notable things that struck us, interesting for a discourse that goes beyond simple trends, and that perhaps say something about us, who we are today and what we want. Here they are.

1. The woman? It is decided!

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Not a few fashion houses have shown on the catwalk an "idea of a determined woman, halfway between the warrior and the career woman. Philipp Plein writes" Warrior "on a sweater, Trussardi dresses women in leather, while Fausto Puglisi shows a luxury warrior, all decorations and bare legs.

2. No, the woman is dreaming

In opposition to this desire of the woman who is determined and ready for battle, the front of the dreaming woman is gently lined up. Or at least, it seems so: Gucci shows women with a vaguely hipster air on the catwalk, with a soft and old-fashioned style that makes them look like the protagonists of a Wes Anderson film (remember Gwyneth Paltrow in Tenenbaum?), while Alberta Ferretti pays homage to the women of the past, who managed to conquer a place of honor without violence (ie in silence). Prada, for its part, pushes so much on candy pink and on the style of a good young lady. not being ironic, knowing the lady's ideas. And so does Giamba, the younger line by Giambattista Valli, who mounts real BDSM straps on delicate floral dresses, in case someone deludes herself of an authentic return to sweetness ... Vivetta instead believes in it, and carries on her idea of a playful style, which makes use of sweetness without nauseating, with measure and irony.

3. The woman? He would like to go back to childhood

Perhaps between the two poles that seem destined to summarize the figure of the woman (saint or warrior? Mother or vamp?) The autumn winter 2015 2016 seems to hang more for the angelic, innocent woman. So innocent as to want to return to childhood, giving up fighting with the male for career and power and taking refuge in the bedroom. Dolce & Gabbana, in their concept fashion show entirely dedicated to motherhood, present dresses with printed drawings of children, a magical and illusory world of houses and an eternal blue sky, and we suspect that this is the dream of adults, more than children ... Jeremy Scott continues with his game with contemporary pop icons and this time he chooses for Moschino the characters of the cartoon Looney Tunes, certainly more cheeky and rock than the dream of a house, but still childish. The "m Isola Marras and Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini also choose naive drawings of dogs or flowers across the board, because the imperative is to dream, or escape from harsh reality ...

4. Other than childhood, the woman is a mother

It is appropriate to go back to describing the Dolce & Gabbana fashion show, entirely dedicated to mothers, because there is an interesting reading behind it. The starting motto is Long live mom, and so the models wear dresses that carry printed drawings and dedications of their (imaginary) children, with eternal messages like "Mom I love you". Many times these models are wearing Madonnas Madonnas with child printed, the emblem of heroic, holy motherhood. Other times these mothers dress like their daughters, and here we find the synthesis between the two ideas of a woman, in all its ambivalence: is this woman an adult or not? Or a playmate? Has she grown up or does she take refuge in motherhood as a return to the hearth, because it's too hard out there? the fashion of next autumn winter is proposed as a refuge, as a consolation from fears, which is perhaps the real luxury of today.

Then...

5. The explosions of color

If you are bored by sociological readings of fashion, we can always focus on the clothes, and what they show on the surface. For autumn winter 2015 2016 the fashion houses have indulged themselves above all on color, declined and combined according to different attitudes. Salvatore Ferragamo plays in a cultured way, citing figures and color compositions of futurism and other avant-gardes, and so does Bottega Veneta . Iceberg is more instinctive, and combines colors as well as explosions on enveloping sweaters, while MSGM, designed by Massimo Giorgetti, continues with his research on color, his stylistic signature since the beginning along with prints. Au Jour Le Jour also does not contradict itself. , and presents a collection conceived on the theme of accumulation, of prints, of colors, of combinations that definitely veer towards psychedelia.

6. The duvet is worn over everything

It may be the cold you expect, but down jackets have dominated this Milan fashion week. And this time it's not just about outerwear. The down jacket became a skirt by Ermanno Scervino, a quilted dress by Max Mara, and finally a total look for Fendi and Moschino.

7. Ruches, flounces and pleats

Ruches, flounces, pleats and various decorations will be the protagonists of next autumn winter. But they won't all be the same, at least not in the minds of designers. Alessandro Dell "Acqua creates masterly asymmetries with the N ° 21 collection, Antonio Marras uses ruffles to make disturbing grafts, Emporio Armani exasperates this intent and transforms the ruffles from prying junk to blunt objects, flat blades. Roberto Cavalli instead indulges himself to use it in all sauces, in a triumph of flourishes and lightness reminiscent of the '70s.

8. The coat is the blanket that we carry outside

The coat, at least according to the majority, will be comfortable and enveloping, will keep you warm and will look like a shell, a nest, Linus' blanket that will make us face the world. Marco De Vincenzo, MSGM and Lorenzo Serafini with his Philosophy must have thought that. Max Mara, which has always been a brand of excellence for the garment, seems to even suggest a gesture, linked to the coat: that of holding it close to oneself, as a way of protection. So maybe it's true, next winter's fashion wants to offer a refuge from the outside world.

9. Blouses and fluttering blouses

The blouse for women typical of the 70s, loose and fluttering, possibly in bright colors or prints, will surely be one of the must-haves of the coming autumn winter. Gucci began, and then followed by Emilio Pucci, Bottega Veneta, Philosophy, Roberto Cavalli and Just Cavalli. The choice of your favorite is yours ...

10. Long live the accessories, always

Here you don't need many words anymore, right? ...

See also:
All the fashion shows of Milan Fashion Week fall winter 2015 2016
Unexpected tights, anti-models to the rescue, and Anna Wintour babysitter. The most surprising things seen at the New York fashion shows
Curvy model appears in Sports Illustrated magazine for the first time in 50 years!