Fit: what is it? The importance of understanding how a garment fits
Fit is a key aspect to consider when working on a tailored model that will become a suit. Have you ever tried on clothes that are not wearable and not suitable for your size? This is where the concept of fit comes into play.Even the bra, the number one undergarment in the female field, has strict parameters to be respected to be comfortable. Find out which ones are in the video below.
What is meant by wearability?
By wearability we mean the attitude of a garment to adapt to the person who is wearing it. If the clothes we buy were sewn following the precise measurements of the body (arm circumference, leg circumference, waistline etc ...) they would not be wearable because they would be so adherent as not to allow any kind of movement. Any model maker to identify the fit of a dress makes a very precise study: the shape, style and degree of adherence are the 3 main aspects considered to arrive at the final model Let's see everything in detail.
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Wearability margins: how many and what are they?
What determines the wearability of a garment are the so-called margins. What is it? template, of the type of garment he was born in tissue from which it will be composed. There are many others, but in the list below we focus on the main and most important ones.
- Fashion
The "fashion" factor is the first and most important aspect to consider when it comes to making a dress. Fashion is constantly evolving and it is she who establishes the wearability criteria: depending on the moment you could wear tight or soft trousers, high or low waisted and so on. In short, fashion and wearability are closely related and change hand in hand.
- Type of garment
The type of garment also affects the fit. If we think of underwear or swimwear, we will have a fit of 0 because they are tight-fitting garments that follow the body's measurements. The same cannot be said for jackets or coats which instead need more centimeters than the measurements of the template.
- Type of fabric
The fabric is also decisive for the fit of a garment. Some types of fabrics are more adapted to the shape of the body, while others are more rigid. This is why a satin garment will be extremely different from an elastane garment when worn.
- Template
Finally, the different model of the same garment is also decisive. There are hundreds of models of skirts or trousers and each one will have a wearability. From time to time you will have to consider what the model itself requires.
Degrees of adherence of garments
Each garment has its own degree of adherence which must be taken into consideration for the final model. There are five degrees of adherence, let's recap them below:
- it is called "zero degree" when the garment is in direct contact with the skin. For example, swimwear or underwear;
- "grade one", on the other hand, will be all kinds of clothes that are worn over underwear;
- jackets, vests and anything worn above grade one will be considered as "fit grade two";
- the "third and fourth degree of adherence", finally, concern the coats.
In consideration of this, after taking the three main body measurements which are the length of the bust, the waistline and the circumference of the hips, we need to add the centimeters that will allow you to move easily and without limitations. Finally, it will also be necessary to consider the measures necessary to change the type of garment and which will differentiate a balloon skirt from a more adherent one.
As we said in the previous paragraphs, the last thing to consider is also the thickness of the fabric that affects the calculation of the fit.
Negative fit and positive fit: what does it mean?
The fabrics adapt to the shape of the body in a more or less enveloping way. When a garment is adherent and has an elasticized fabric we speak of a negative fit, and a typical example is leggings. On the other hand, if the dress is larger than the body and is therefore soft or flared, it will have a positive fit.
In order for the wearability and fitting to be perfect, a series of technical operations are required by professionals in the sector.
